Bariloche, or San Carlos de Bariloche as its full name goes, though no one really uses it, is situated in the northern part of Patagonia, 800 meters above sea level, beautifully positioned by a large lake. During the peak season, January to February, the area teems with tourists. Argentinians take their summer vacations and head south to Patagonia, to the mountains, away from the heat of the north. In winter, they also flock here, to ski. With its many large ski resorts, the town’s architecture resembles more of an alpine ski resort than an Argentine city.
Along the main street, restaurants line up, interrupted only by sports stores and chocolate shops. Chocolate seems to be a big thing here. There’s even a German bierstube with a biergarten. Everywhere, there are crowds, so if you seek some peace, explore the side streets.
If you plan to go hiking, you’ll need to take the bus. All buses run through the parallel street above the main street. Bus fares are very affordable, starting from 10 cents for shorter trips, up to 60 for an hour-long bus ride. Taxis are also reasonably priced, around 12 USD for an hour-long trip. To take the bus, you’ll need a SUBE card, which you can buy and top up at one of the many kiosks.
During the season, buses are packed. If you want a seat, you’ll have to venture a bit away from the central hub. Bus 20 goes to Villa Llao Llao, a scenic area by the lake where some classic hikes start. Bus 55 takes you up to the ski resort Villa Catedral, where the popular hike to Refugio Frey begins.
Villa Llao Llao
The hour-long bus ride to Villa Llao Llao follows the shoreline. Along the way, there are hotels, guesthouses, and some holiday homes trying to outdo each other in rustic architecture. The traffic is heavy, the road not too good, the bus worn out and packed with people clinging to seats and poles.
The national park sits on a peninsula and is popular for hiking. The gently rolling path winds among large deciduous trees where sunlight filters through the canopy. Fallen giants lie scattered, teeming with insects and fungi, adding life to the surroundings.
The trail circumnavigates the peninsula, with several spots where you can reach the water, which is swimmable. Through the trees, you can catch glimpses of the snow-capped mountains.
You can take a detour up to Llao Llao, a small peak at 200 meters, for an even better view.
One thing I’ve noticed is the total absence of garbage, both in the streets and out in nature. Let’s support this. At the park entrance, there’s a sign: if you need to do some toilet business, take your paper back with you and dispose of it. A very good rule. Toilet paper decomposes slowly, can blow away, and is unpleasant. Remember to bring an empty plastic bag.
Refugio Frey
The hike up to Refugio Frey at 1700 meters is the classic in Bariloche. It starts with an hour on crowded bus route 55 up to Villa Catedral. A taxi for 12 USD might be a good alternative. A refugio is like a Scandinavian or Swiss tourist cabin, and you’ll see many with large backpacks, tents, and sleeping bags. Some are planning to continue further into the mountains to two other refugios along the trail.
But many take it as a day trip. It’s about 20 km round trip, with 700 meters of elevation gain. So, you need to be reasonably fit. The hike starts on flat terrain, on a sandy trail into the valley with a view of Lake Gutierrez far below, before halfway, it turns into the valley towards the refugio. Here, it starts to ascend. The valley is shaded by large trees, providing cool relief. In the valley bottom, you can hear and see the river coming from the lake of melt water up at the refugio. Halfway up the valley, you cross the river and can refill water bottles. The water is safe to drink, and on hot days, you’ll need a lot of it. I myself drank about 4-5 liters on the hike in nearly 30 degrees centigrade.
The hike is popular, and you’ll encounter many, exclusively Argentinians from what I could hear. It strikes me again that there is a clear predominance of young girls hiking. Some alone, others in groups. Some sing as they walk. I’ve observed the same phenomenon in every country I’ve hiked in. Are the guys sitting around playing video games? If you’re single and want to do something about it, get yourself some hiking boots and get out there!
After crossing the river, it starts to get steep. The trail, once hard sand, turns into climbing among large rocks the last kilometer. The large trees disappear, and you get a view of the fantastic mountain landscape. Finally, you can see the goal of the trip. Mountains with sharp peaks and snow-filled ravines with the cabin in the foreground.
The refugio is spectacularly situated by a lake of melt water, surrounded in a semicircle by steep peaks with distinctive alpine spires. I’m amazed to see girls walking around in bikinis, and many are swimming in the cold water. Up the scree slope behind the cabin, you can see yellow and orange tents pitched on small platforms between the rocks.
At the cabin, you can buy snacks and food if you’re running low on supplies. From the outdoor seating, you can watch climbers on a steep cliff where they cling to their ropes.
If you wish to stay overnight, you must book in advance: refugiofreybariloche.com
