Buenos Aires is the city of tango, the city of great steaks, and the city of friendly people. If you’re a bit older, people will stand up for you on the bus. Everyone greets you with a “Hola, qué tal,” and no one cares if your Spanish is terrible.
The city is characterized by its golden age at the end of the 19th century when Argentina was one of the richest countries in the world. Beautifully decorated classical buildings and grand palaces are scattered throughout the city. In between, modern times have arrived with high-rise office and residential buildings.
Another thing that strikes a visitor is how green the city is, amidst all the buildings. Nearly every street, from the widest avenues to narrow residential streets, is lined with trees. Often, the trees are so large that the street feels like a tunnel through the foliage. And a green park is never far away.
BA is a big city. Three million people live in the central areas, and 15 million in the metropolitan area. Fortunately, there is excellent public transportation, and the city is swarming with taxis.
The price level is pleasant, but high inflation causes prices to rise. I was here in February and September 2024. In six months, the bus fare had increased from 10 cent to 40 cent for a trip in central areas. So, not expensive, but still a significant increase. Dining out had also become much more expensive.
Read more under “Practical Tips.” xxx
Here you can read about some of the city’s attractions: XX
Neighborhoods and Where to Stay
San Telmo
San Telmo is a perfect place to stay in BA. Downtown, around Plaza de la República, there are wide boulevards, lots of cars, lots of people, and lots of noise. But in San Telmo, the streets are narrow and cobblestone-paved, with cozy classic cafés and restaurants, a laid-back atmosphere, and tango.
We were lucky to find an Airbnb right by Plaza Dorrego, or Plaza de Tango as our taxi driver called it. And the name did not disappoint. On Sundays, there was a large antique market in the square. There was plenty of beautiful stuff to find, so bring a large suitcase if you’re interested in such things. In the afternoon, parts of the square were cleared for free tango performances by professional dancers. Well, not entirely free — a hat was passed around after the show, and people happily donated a few bills. He was a gentleman in his 50s or 60s in a black, wide suit. She, a bit younger, in a black dress.
After the professionals, tango-loving amateurs took over and filled the square. Not that they danced like amateurs; rarely have I seen such concentration and immersion on a dance floor. Argentine tango is serious business.
For the market, Defensa Street, where we stayed, was closed to car traffic, and the market stretched over a kilometer down toward the city center. Occasionally, marching bands would pass by. First, a children’s band, then an intensely drumming, dancing, and somewhat colorful group, probably from La Boca, south of San Telmo. La Boca has a bad reputation, and it’s advised not to go there at night. But La Boca is also colorful, with houses painted in bright colors, restaurants, and of course, lots of tourists.
The square, with its large shady trees, is surrounded by small traditional restaurants. You can sit inside in high-ceilinged rooms or at one of the tables in the square itself. The atmosphere was so inviting that we chose to have dinner there on Monday as well. To our surprise, there was another tango performance that night, this time by a younger couple, possibly even more professional with amazing footwork.
If you stay here for a few days, you might get tired of dinner with tango performances. Then you can head to the parallel street, Bolivar. Bolivar was the great freedom fighter in South America, and every city in SA has a Bolivar Street. In BA’s Bolivar, there are many restaurants and cafés, and it’s very lively in the evenings.
You can also visit the market hall, Mercado San Telmo, located between Bolivar and Defensa, at the corner of Carlos Calvo. Drop by even if you’re not hungry. The market, considered the best in BA, has many colorful stalls and various eateries where you can grab a quick and tasty meal. Take a moment to look up and admire the beautiful ceiling and steel structures. The building dates from 1897 and is a historic monument.
If you stay here for a few days, you might get tired of dinner with tango performances. Then you can head to the parallel street, Bolivar. Bolivar was the great freedom fighter in South America, and every city in SA has a Bolivar Street. In BA’s Bolivar, there are many restaurants and cafés, and it’s very lively in the evenings.
You can also visit the market hall, Mercado San Telmo, located between Bolivar and Defensa, at the corner of Carlos Calvo. Drop by even if you’re not hungry. The market, considered the best in BA, has many colorful stalls and various eateries where you can grab a quick and tasty meal. Take a moment to look up and admire the beautiful ceiling and steel structures. The building dates from 1897 and is a historic monument.
El Federal is also recommended for good food. The steak is excellent, and the atmosphere is superb. The restaurant dates back to 1864, and little has changed since then.
You can find it at the corner of Perú and Carlos Calvo.
Argentinians love meat, especially steak, or “bife” as they call it. But be aware that “bife” can refer to anything from thin, overcooked slices of meat to thick, juicy steaks. If you want a proper steak, go for Bife de Chorizo, Lomo, or Ojo de Bife, which corresponds to ribeye. “Jugosa” means medium rare, “A Punto” medium.
Heading north from San Telmo towards the city center, the cobblestone streets give way to wide avenues, and the small bars are replaced by fancy shops and restaurants. But there’s still plenty to see for a tourist. Start in the heart of the city, perhaps around Plaza de Mayo and Plaza de la República. Both squares are dominated by tall obelisks, the tallest being at Plaza de la República.
Read more of that here: xxx
Palermo
Palermo, located just north of the city center, is also a popular area to stay. The streets are wider than in San Telmo, and the architecture is a mix of low, colonial-style houses and newer buildings.
The most popular parts of Palermo are Palermo Soho and Palermo Hollywood. Here, you can find some of the best restaurants in Buenos Aires, trendy coffee shops, and a bustling nightlife. The area around Plaza Serrano and Plaza Inmigrantes de Armenia is especially lively.
Palermo is more touristy than San Telmo, with plenty of souvenir shops, and prices are generally higher. But if you want to hang out with other tourists, this is the place to be.
La Boca
This neighborhood south of San Telmo is a working-class area along the mouth of the Matanza River. Here you’ll find La Bombonera, the stadium of the famous soccer team Boca Juniors, and Caminito, a tourist magnet and trap of considerable size. The houses along the Caminito street and the surrounding blocks are painted in bright colors.
Many of the houses are built from corrugated sheet metal and originally housed Italian immigrants who arrived in the late 1800s. Now, they are instead filled with restaurants, bars, and souvenir shops, and the street is packed with tourists.
La Boca has a bit of a rough reputation, so keep an eye on your wallet in the crowd, and avoid late-night bar visits. But during the daytime, it is perfectly safe to visit the area.
Recoleta
Recoleta is a residential area just north of the city centre. Here you will find many museums and stately classic French mansions. But most of the buildings consist of high-standard apartment blocks of 10-20 storeys. The streets are wide and lined with trees. If you want to live close to the city center and attractions, it can be a good choice. But if you want to live close to restaurants and nightlife, San Telmo and Palermo are probably a better choice. The price level is among the highest in the city.
The famous cemetery, Recoleta is located here. Read about it here: xx
Tigre
Thirty kilometers north of downtown Buenos Aires lies a large delta formed by several rivers that flow into the innermost part of the bay between Argentina and Uruguay, the Río de la Plata. The green, flat landscape is crisscrossed by rivers and canals, making it a paradise for kayaking and boat trips. You can take shorter or longer sightseeing tours with boats of various sizes. If you want to see the smaller canals, choose a smaller boat.
Take the train from Retiro to Tigre and cross the road at the bridge, where you’ll find ticket sales for the boats straight ahead. You can use a Sube card on the train. The trains run frequently but slowly. Expect about an hour for the journey.
Along the canals, holiday homes are packed closely together. Many are available for rent and are excellent if you’re looking for some peace and quiet as a break from BA.
Caballito
In Caballito, you’ll find plenty of shops and the lovely Parque Rivadavia. On Sundays, it’s bustling with people having lunch and dancing, and from Tuesday to Sunday, there’s a market where old toys, CDs, and games are sold.
In nearby Almagro, you’ll find the church Basílica María Auxiliadora y San Carlos, which is colorfully decorated inside. Check it out here: XX
Puerto Madero
Puerto Madero is the story of a failed port that became a successful neighborhood. The city lacked a deep-water port, so it was decided to build a new port here. Canals were dug, warehouses and cranes were built. The port was completed in 1897, but within a few years, ships had grown so large that they couldn’t use the port anymore, so a new one, Puerto Nuevo, was built.
Puerto Madero deteriorated and became the worst slum in the city. But in 1990, the city council took action and began upgrading the old docks, turning them into residences. At the same time, a group of architects and builders started constructing some of the most spectacular skyscrapers. Today, it is the hottest and absolutely most expensive district in Buenos Aires.
Puerto Madero is a 10-minute walk from San Telmo. If you walk a bit further, you’ll get a big surprise. Here, you’ll find a large nature park.
Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur
The nature park lies between Puerto Madero and the Rio de la Plata. It consists partly of dry land and partly of swamp areas with rich birdlife. Here, you can take long walks, partly on gravel paths and partly on raised wooden walkways through the swamp. It’s a pleasant break from the bustling city life. There are plenty of birds, exotic trees and plants to study.
Colonia del Sacramento – Uruguay
Colonia is described as the finest colonial-style town in South America, and it’s only an hour’s boat ride from BA. Three different ferry companies operate on the route, and you can easily book tickets online, for example, here: coloniaexpress.com.
Immigration control in and out of both countries is very streamlined and quick. Remember to bring your passport.
The large old town consists solely of one- and some two-story houses from 1680 onwards. The atmosphere is very laid back and invites you to stroll along the cobbled streets, admire the old houses, and then sit down at one of the many outdoor cafés for a small refreshment. We stayed for one night and didn’t regret it. It was wonderful to get away from the big city for a while.
Montevideo is also within reach by boat, but the trip is longer and more expensive than to Colonia.
Read about museums and sights here: xxx
All about Argentina here: category/argentina
