In January 2025, we took a tour of northern Argentina. We first spent Christmas in the Tigre Delta outside Buenos Aires, then flew northwest to the mountains of Salta near the borders of Chile and Bolivia. Next, we headed south to Mendoza with its wine and mountains before taking a bus east to Cordoba. You can read about Salta, Tigre and Mendoza here: category/argentina
Cordoba: A Surprisingly Omitted Destination
Cordoba is Argentina’s second-largest city, with 1.4 million inhabitants, but oddly enough, it wasn’t mentioned in our Lonely Planet guidebook. We took a chance and went there anyway.
Long Distances: Fly or Bus?
Argentina is a vast country, so flying is often the best way to travel. However, we enjoy overland travel, preferably by train. Unfortunately, most of Argentina’s rail network has been dismantled, so instead, we opted for an 11-hour bus ride. When factoring in all the waiting and transit time associated with flying, the bus doesn’t take much longer. Argentine buses are very comfortable, and if you choose a “cama” seat, you’ll get a large, plush seat that reclines almost fully if you want to sleep. The comfort far surpasses that of an airplane, so we didn’t regret our choice of the bus from Mendoza to Cordoba.
Jesuits: A Powerful Influence
Cordoba greeted us with temperatures nearing 40°C. Being such a large city, it covers a wide area, but for tourists, the central historic district is the most interesting. In Cordoba, it’s known as the Jesuit Quarter. The Jesuits arrived in 1599 and established their headquarters here, leaving a significant mark on the city. They also founded Argentina’s first university here.
You can explore more of the Jesuits’ influence at the Museo Monserrat, part of the university, and the Jesuit Church, Iglesia Compañía de Jesús. Most museums and historic churches are within walking distance of Plaza San Martín in the old town.
Another gem is the small art museum, Museo Municipal Genaro Pérez, housed in a magnificent old villa as captivating as the art itself. These small museums are found in most Argentine cities and are usually free to enter.
As you continue to stroll, you’ll come across Cordoba’s version of New York’s “Flat Iron” building: Edificio La Mundial, also known as Edificio Gillette. It’s one of the narrowest buildings in the world, only 3 meters wide at its narrowest point, created due to a land dispute.
City of Churches
Cordoba is renowned for its many 17th-century churches and is home to two of Argentina’s oldest monasteries. As with all Catholic churches, they are richly decorated. If you want more religious art, there’s a dedicated museum for sacred artifacts featuring numerous sorrowful Madonnas and suffering Christ figures from the 17th to 19th centuries. If you’re lucky, you can get a private tour of a sealed-off church that is part of the museum.
The area around the central plaza is pleasant for wandering through pedestrian streets, dining, or grabbing a drink at one of the many restaurants. Most plazas in Argentina are named after notable dates in the independence wars, but this one is named after General José Francisco de San Martín, known as the Father of the Republic and a key figure in liberating Argentina, Chile, and Peru from Spanish rule. The plaza is dominated by a massive equestrian statue of the general on a rearing horse, pointing toward the city’s cathedral, which is also worth visiting.
Parque Nacional Quebrada del Condorito
The mountain regions west of Cordoba offer dramatic landscapes, hiking, and condors. Although condors are mostly found in the Andes, some have migrated east to the Cordoba mountains—and they didn’t disappoint. We rented a car and drove up to the park, located at an altitude of about 2,000 meters, and hiked several kilometers along marked trails. We weren’t disappointed, spotting nearly 10 condors, one of which was less than 20 meters away.
Mina Clavero
After visiting the national park, we continued on RP34, descending the mountains to Mina Clavero. The Cordoba side of the mountain is gentle and flat, but on the west side, toward Mina Clavero, the terrain becomes dramatic, with jagged cliffs and narrow ravines carved by small rivers at the bottom. RP34 is the new mountain road and is of very high quality. If you have a car with good ground clearance, you can take the old road, RP14. This partially rough gravel road follows ancient horse trails over the mountains. We ventured partway with our small rental car but turned back to avoid damaging it. The road is narrow and winding, with deep potholes but far more exciting than RP34. It also runs close to the rivers that have made Mina Clavero famous. The rivers have carved deep ravines, small waterfalls, and pools with sandy beaches, offering countless opportunities for swimming in crystal-clear water. In fact, Mina Clavero is on the list of “Argentina’s Seven Natural Wonders.”
You can anyway get to the rivers and ravines in the town of Mina Clavero.
If you want to extend your trip, take RP28 back to Cordoba and experience even more dramatic scenery, such as Los Gigantes. However, this road is also gravel, so exercise caution if you’re driving a rental car.
All about Argentina here: category/argentina
