Countless vampire movies have created an image of Romania’s Transylvania as a place filled with spooky castles, only accessible through arduous journeys through dense forests and deep mountain gorges. And yes, Transylvania does have fantastic castles like Corvins Castle.
Less known are Transylvania’s fortified churches. Church and fortress might sound like a contradiction, but in the 1300s and 1400s, this area was constantly under attack from the east. Tartars, and later Ottomans tried to conquer and plunder this fertile area.
At that time, Transylvania experienced significant immigration, particularly from northern Germany. The Saxons were industrious, but a lack of land drove them southward. Transylvania was sparsely populated and suitable for agriculture. They established many villages here but were constantly threatened by attacks. Houses at that time were fragile and easy to burn down, but as in most cultures, they also built a grand stone church.
Combined House of Worship and Protection
Then they had the brilliant idea to combine the house of worship with protection. The result was fortified churches—solid, towering buildings. The churches are Gothic, but unlike other Gothic churches, which have large window areas enabled by the column architecture that came with Gothic design, these churches do not have windows but loopholes.
Around the church, they also built a solid wall with towers, like a traditional fortress.
In total, 300 such churches were built in a small area, 100 by 100 kilometers. Every smallest village built a church, even if there were only a few dozen houses. Today, 150 churches remain, a good testament to how solid these structures are. Those that are gone were mostly destroyed by fire and earthquakes.
For an attacking enemy, the area must have seemed impregnable. Here, it was not one fortress you had to besiege, but 300!
Visiting Transylvania
The landscape in this part of Transylvania consists of green, forested hills, rolling fields, and small, colorful villages dominated by various pastel colors. Along the road through the village, many have set up tables and chairs outside and sit chatting with their neighbors, often with a glass of wine. The roads are narrow but paved and have little traffic. Occasionally, you might encounter a horse and carriage, so take it easy. The people are friendly and helpful, and many young people speak English. Everyone understands Italian. Romanian is the language that is closest to classical Latin.
The nice thing is that you can combine a trip in rural surroundings with plenty to see. The area is just northwest of the beautiful city of Brasov. I can recommend Zori camping as a starting point. The small campsite with 8 spots is located in the village of Cloasterf. The host is a friendly lady who speaks English well. It has a great kitchen and an outdoor area under a roof, and everything is clean and neat. From the camp, you can study a church on the other side of the road, and many of the most beautiful churches are right nearby.
But bring earplugs. Romanians love dogs, and they run free. They are not threatening but make a lot of noise in the evening and throughout the night. When you finally fall asleep, the roosters take over in the morning.
Festivals
If you’re lucky, there is a festival in the area. It doesn’t take much to make a festival. We arrived just in time for the annual rhubarb festival in the neighboring village of Cloasterf. Here, you could get everything made from rhubarb, pies, and wine. It was fun to see the local life and buy local products like rhubarb of course, honey, and cheese.
Locked Churches
Most churches are locked, but they have a sign with a phone number you can call to get them unlocked. We tried it twice. The first time, at the church near the campsite, an old man came two minutes after we called. He called a younger man who happened to be nearby and who spoke English, and he guided us around.
The second time, in Archita half an hour away, the lady couldn’t come due to “problems.” It was a shame, as this was a fantastic facility. See the picture.
But it doesn’t hurt to try, just ask “Se poate vizita biserica?”
Viscri Fortified Church
One church you must not miss is the one in Viscri. It towers high in the terrain surrounded by a park. High walls surround it and there are as many as 6 large towers. Some you can climb.
The church is open and the most beautiful of the 11 churches we visited. Well, not open all the time. This was a Sunday, and at 11 o’clock three men came and started ringing the bells. From inside the church, organ music was heard, so I curiously followed them in and sat down. Then they locked the door, and the Lutheran service began. Interestingly enough, it was in German, and the approximately 20 in the congregation spoke and sang in German. So, it is evidently descendants of the Saxons who still speak German, 600 years later. After an hour, I was let out again and reunited with my wife who was outside. I managed to sneak in a little video clip you can see below.
Carousel Viscri below
Video from service and walk around Viscri.
