The Inca Trail is one of the top 10 hikes you can go. You can go by car all the way to Machu Picchu, but hiking adds an extra dimension to the trip. The trip follows old Inca roads, ie they are paved and with stairs. So the trip is easy even if it is steep, except for the height above sea level that makes you occasionally gasp for air. The lowest point is 2250 meters, the highest 4200 meters. So even if you are fit, you will struggle with your breath on the slopes, and they are many. You can only join guided tours and they have porters who take all luggage, tents and food. Even though you may find it wimpy not to carry your backpack yourself, you will eventually appreciate it. And remember that for the carriers, this is one of the few job opportunities in the area, so do not feel sorry for them. They are used to the height and run from you with two bags on their backs.
When choosing a tour operator, do not go for the very cheapest. Choose one that pays the carriers a decent salary.
There are restrictions on the number that can go every day so be early to book the trip. Maybe up to a year in advance. And set aside at least 3 days for acclimatization before the hike. Cusco which is the starting point for the tours is with its location at 3400 meters perfect for acclimatization. Around Cusco there is a lot to see from the Inca period, and you can take shorter or longer walks in the surrounding mountains. Excellent height habituation.
Cusco
Saqsaywaman is a fairly large ruin field just outside the center of Cusco. Puka Pukara and Tambomachay are 4-5 km from the center and it is a nice walk there. There are ruins of a fort from the Inca period. Here it is easy to study the Incas’ fantastic stone-building art. Huge boulders of up to several tens of tons have been cut with such accuracy that you cannot stick a razor blade in between them.
Other smaller ruins are also located in this area.
Bring warm clothes. Although Peru is right next to the equator, it is cold in the evenings due to the altitude. In addition, there are few places with heating in restaurants and hotels so we usually ate dinner with the down jacket on.
Our hiking team to Machu Picchu consisted of Englishmen, Americans and us two Norwegians, a total of 8 people. We had a good English speaking guide, and a variety of porters. They arranged camp for us, cooked and served it in a separate dining tent. As camping it felt a little unusual.
Warmtwanusca – 4215 meter
The tours usually start after a short bus ride from Cusco to Pisvacucho at about 2500 meters altitude. Then it goes a little upwards to Pallaqta where there is a small Inca ruin and we stay over night. The next day there is a harder climb up to 3800 meters and the next overnight stay. Then you have to cross the highest point, Warmtwanusca pass at 4215 meters. Now you can really feel the height, and get use for hat and mittens.
The whole trail have long and low sloping steps on the slopes so it is easy to walk. If you struggle with your breath, the path is wide enough that you can cross back and forth diagonally.
The consolation is that after the pass it goes mostly down the rest.
Before Machu Picchu you pass 3 other smaller Inca cities. At the most seeing worth, Sayacmarca we make a long stop. It is wonderfully located on a steep slope overlooking the valley below. Even if it is steep, it does not feel dangerous. Actually, nowhere is the trip particularly exposed. A canal brought water into the village, but it was not possible to grow anything there, so there is a small ruined village further down where they grew food.
Next we move into high-lying jungle with trees and floral splendor. If you are lucky you can see hummingbirds suck nectar from the flowers.
On the last day we got up early to get to the Sun Gate, Inti Punku right after sunrise. This is an old checkpoint for Machu Picchu where you can look down on the town bathing in the first sunlight. A magical sight! From here it goes downhill and you get an ever better view of the city. One of the absolute highlights of the trip. Machu Picchu is located along a ridge with steep drops down to a river deep below on 3 sides. At the end of the town there is a small mountain peak, Huayna Piccu which you can climb if you dare, it is quite exposed.
At the Sun Gate you get the first glimpse of Machu Picchu
Machu Picchu itself just has to be experienced. The location and the wonderful stonework is difficult to describe.
Titicaca
Once you are in Peru there are also other things to see. A trip into the Amazon perhaps, or the valleys north of Lima. We chose to stay in southern Peru and took the bus to Titicaca, one of the largest lakes in South America which with its altitude of 3800 meters above sea level is the world’s highest navigable sea. It is easy to go by bus in Peru, but be aware of pickpockets, especially on night buses. We experienced a wallet being stolen, fortunately without much money. I even saw a a guy hid under the seats to reach some tourists further ahead.
We had booked a trip with accommodation on the lake. A little unsure about the idea, but at least we got to see the famous reed boats and artificial reed islands. But a bit high tourist factor. Accommodation was in a private home on an island out in the sea. Even with a basic Spanish knowledge, I felt uncomfortable to sit at the table trying to talk to the hosts. You should know Spanish well to get something out of it. On the other hand, the islanders are poor people, so the tourists’ payment is coming in handy.
Arequipa
After Titicaca it was fine to get down in the “lowlands”, to Arequipa at 2300 meters. It was a noticeably warmer climate here, and it was even tempting to swim in the hotel pool. Arequipa is a worth seeing old town in colonial style. From the Plaza de Armas you can see three volcanoes at about 6000 meters altitude. Especially nice is the view from one of the roof terraces by the square.
The Santa Catalina Monastery is definitely worth a visit. It is a Dominican nunnery from the 17th century. As a warm-up, you can read the novel “Paradise on the other corner” by Mario Vargas Llosa, which partly takes place here.
During one of our visits to the mentioned roof terrace, we found out that a trip up one of the volcanoes, Chachani, could be a good idea.
Chachani – vulcano at 6075 meter
If you want to climbt a peak over 6000 meters, Chachani is perhaps the easiest in the world. We took a guided tour and were driven up to 5000 meters where we spent the night for altitude habituation. I slept extremely poorly and woke up constantly gasping for air. It was not getting better when we started walking towards the top early in the morning. At this height you can not take steps longer than 30 cm, and slowly we moved upwards. It was hurting all the time. My feet started to get cold in my Norwegian mountain boots with woolen socks, and I regretted that I had not rented boots from the tour operator. It was maybe 5 degrees below zero, but at this altitude you freeze extremely easily.
Sadly, we did not get to the top, but I was actually relieved when my companion gave in due to problems with the altitude at around 5500 meters. The view from up there is fantastic, but can only be recommended if you really want to get over 6000 meters.
Other hikes:
La Gomera hiking
La Palma hiking
Mallorca hiking
Madeira Levada hiking
Viñales Cuba, tourism and hiking
Phong Nha National Park Vietnam
