Japan had long been on the travel wish list, but everyone said it was so expensive there. But then my teenage son announced that he would like to go there, as a form of educational journey that we have taken the children on. The big surprise was when I found out that it was actually cheap to travel in Japan. You can easily find hotels for USD 40 – 50 for a double room in Tokyo if you do not have luxurious requirements. And then you get a room with a bathroom, kimino and of course, slippers.
Backpacking in Japan is easy thanks to the Japan Rail Pass which gives access to the wonderfully well-developed railway network they have. I am 195 cm and was afraid it was bad legroom since the Japanese are a lot shorter than us. The big surprise was that there was at least twice as much legroom as on European trains.
The Rail Pass covers most lines, including the Shinkansen express train “the bullet train”, and the small rail buses found in the countryside.
If you are going to buy a Rail Pass, and you should be if you are going to travel around a bit, then remember that this must be booked before you come to Japan. The voucher you receive when ordering is exchanged to the pass when you arrive in Japan, preferably already at the airport.
Tokyo has two airports, Haneda and Narita. Haneda is close to town, Narita about 1.5 hours by train away. It may be a bit random which one you arrive and fly from, although Narita is mostly used for international flights. There are trains to both airports. From Haneda there is a monorail, but only to
Hamamatsucho where you can change. Alternatively Keikyu Airport Line.
We had to go in the middle of the summer because of the school holidays. It is not the best time as it can get very hot combined with high humidity. Spring is especially nice, especially if you catch the cherry blossoms.
Tokyo is known to be a big city. Very big. But it is still easy to navigate thanks to the very well-developed metro and railway network. It is very wise to familiarize yourself with this before coming. The visitor list for Tokyo should include the business and entertainment district of Shibuya, which is bustling with life, for example, there is the world’s largest intersection in the number of pedestrian crossings there. A sight! But Tokyo also has quiet low-rise areas, peaceful streets and temples. You can enter the temples, but take off your shoes. If you are lucky, you can attend evocative ceremonies.
We made an attempt to see something typical Japanese, Kabuki theater and Sumo wrestling. But tickets had to be booked a long time in advance, so if you want that, book before you travel.
Join some of the famous gardens with their beautifully pruned trees, bridges and ponds. There are many of them so just google one nearby.
We also visited the Japanese Military Museum. Interesting, especially to see Japan’s presentation of World War II. It differs slightly from ours, especially regarding the cause of Japanese attacks on the United States and China.
After 3 days in Tokyo we went on to Nagoya with Tōkaidō Shinkansen.
Nagoya
In Nagoya you should visit the castle. It was like a majority of Japanese castles destroyed during the war, but it has been rebuilt as a faithful copy of the original. Inside, the castle is richly decorated as an art gallery. The original was built in 1610 and rebuilt in 1959.
Nagoya castle
An important reason we went to Nagoya was to visit a Toyota factory located in the town of Toyota, a short distance from Nagoya. A tour here must be booked online well in advance. Perhaps most for those particularly interested.
Tsumago
Another important reason for stopping in Nagoya was that this is the starting point for a visit to Tsumago which is a museum town with history dating back to the Edo period. The best way to get there is an 8 km, 2-3 hour hike from Magome. It runs through beautiful countryside and passes traditional houses, some with dining. A great introduction to rural Japan and a striking contrast to Tokyo. To get to Magome, take the train to Nakatsugawa station and then continue by bus.
Tsumago consists of a long street surrounded by historic buildings, many with accommodation. We stayed two days in a ryokan which is a traditional Japanese inn. That is, you sleep on the floor on mats, which are not very comfortable, and eat at low tables where it is difficult to place your legs. I ended up sticking them right out under the table and out on the other side. We talked to some young Japanese boys at the next table. They did not speak good English and giggled all the time. I do not know if it was because of the beer they drank, or my legs. Anyway, great food and atmosphere. Feel free to put on a kimono for dinner, but remember the right slippers.
Return from Tsumago is a short bus or taxi ride to the train station.
Tsumago
Kyoto
Kyoto was the next stop on the way south. Kyoto is considered Japan’s cultural capital and should be included in the program. Here are several worth seeing temples, not least the Fushimi Inari-taisha Shrine. This is a magnificent temple complex on a mountainside where you can walk through, literally, a thousand gates, Torii up the mountainside. There are many smaller shrines up in the mountains.
We struggled a bit to find the hotel, Google maps was not working well with the narrow streets in the city center. And then we were surprised by pouring rain, kind of tropical cloudburst. Fortunately, we experienced some of the Japanese helpfulness. We asked an English-speaking couple about the road, and they escorted us the 3 blocks to the hotel under their umbrellas.
We also came across a Shinto procession with drums and other instruments unknown to us. Just walking around Japanese cities is a fascinating experience as different as it is from our part of the world.
Fushimi Inari-taisha Shrine
Osaka and Nara
The next stop was Osaka. Osaka is known for a rich nightlife, and again a castle that is worth a visit. Go to the Shinsaibashi district and experience retro Japan with its light advertising and exciting eateries. If you’ve seen Blade Runner (the first one) you will immediately recognize the atmosphere.
If you want to experience more nature Nara is a great opportunity. Nara is the area south-east towards the coast where there are mountains and wilderness. Take a train to the town of Nara. It is known for two things, the domesticated deer and one of the world’s largest Buddha statues. The Buddha was undoubtedly large, and the deer very tame. In the park in the center there are hundreds of them, and everyone expects to be petted and get a treat. If you travel with children, this is a sure winner.
Koyasan
We continued by train to Koyasan, a famous Buddhist temple site a few hours from Nara. If Shinkansen’s speed and precision are fascinating, the small rail buses that run rural stretches are ditto charming. They are small trains consisting of one or two carriages and railway lines that run in the middle of nature, with stops in each village. It does not go fast, but certainly is an experience. If you have seen Japanese anime, for example some of Hayao Miyazakis, you will recognize them immediately.
From Kayosan station, the trip continues by cable train up the mountain where the temple area is located. It consists of a small village, several temples and a large Buddhist cemetery. The area oozes sacred atmosphere.
It was quite expensive accommodation here so we chose to return to Nara in the afternoon, after a short hike in the hills around Koyasan.
Himeji
We continued towards Hiroshima, but stopped in Himeji for a few hours. The only reason for this is that Japan’s best preserved castle is located here. It has been restored, but not a copy like so many others. Unfortunately, the castle itself was closed due to restoration, but we got to study it from the outside and guided around by an older gentleman who appreciated the youngest man’s knowledge of Japanese history.
Himeji castle
Hiroshima
Hiroshima is not particularly interesting, apart from the city’s tragic history. So the museum and the famous landmark should be visited.
Back we drove nonstop to Tokyo. Not completely nonstop, we ended up on the wrong train and changed along the way. Although the Shinkansen runs fast, there is a difference between the trains. We first took the Kodama which stops at all stations, and often stays there for a long time. So we switched to Nozomi which only stops in the very largest cities. Nozomi only use about 4 hours on the approximately 800 kilometers from Hiroshima to Tokyo.
Practical tips
Hotel prices in Japan range from very expensive to quite reasonable. You should always book in advance, eg with Hotels.com. The ryokan is medium priced, but should be experienced. In addition, there is private accommodation that is affordable, and youth hostels that are open to everyone.
As you know, Japanese people have their very own culture, but do not expect you as a tourist to know all the rules. With ordinary courtesy you will be fine. Remember to remove your shoes in private homes or temples. The Japanese do not shake hands either, but bow.
If you are interested in castles, there is a nice overview here: http://www.japanese-castle-explorer.com/
