La Gomera – hiking in mountains and forests.
This is an article about Valle Gran Ray and surroundings on La Gomera.
An article on the northern part and Vallehermoso can be found here: La Gomera hiking- Vallehermoso
For the southern part read here: La Gomera – around Playa de Santiago.
La Gomera is one of the smaller Canary islands and maybe the best for walking. The nature is the most varied of the islands, with dry climate around the coast, and the beautiful forested Garajonay National Park in the middle of the island. All major paths are signposted.
The highest tourist density is found in Valle Gran Ray. Although there are a number of tourists here, it cannot be compared to, for example, Playa Americana on Tenerife. The buildings are kept low, and even though there are a few hotels, you get the feeling of being in a small town, not a tourist ghetto. Gran Ray also has a beach, as one of the few places on the island. I have been to La Gomera 3 times, the first time about 20 years ago there has been a increasing number of tourism here. 80% of the tourists are Germans. 10 years ago I crossed the island from Hermigua to Gran Ray and met maybe 5 people. Now there is quite a few more, but still far from crowded. If you totally want to avoid tourists you should stay in Vallehermoso or Hermigua.
In the 1970s there were hardly any roads here and all transport went by mule according to a German who had been here in the early 80’s. It is these old travel paths that have now been converted into walking paths. And significant funds have been invested in EU road upgrades.
The easiest way to get to La Gomera is by plane to Tenerife South, and then by boat from Los Christianos. Fred Olsen Express, 40 minutes.
Valle Gran Ray. Irish Punk-Folk band
Valle Gran Ray (La Calera)
Gran Ray as a starting point for walks is somewhat limited. If starting from Gran Ray you have to go straight up the mountain, with a climb of 800 meters. Then it is better to take the bus, for example to Arure (30 min) where there is a great trip out on the mountain above Gran Ray. Fantastic views, no problem even if you have a fear of heights. You come out on a large plateau above Valle Gran Ray, with a couple of farm ruins. It is very dry with little vegetation, with kilometres of fences with stones picked from the fields. It must have been a hard life living here.
Above Gran Ray
If you walk in the opposite direction from Arure, you come to a narrow path that follows the mountainside, with drops many hundreds meters. A fantastic view, but not for those with a fear of heights. 800 meters down the sea sparkles. But completely safe to walk as long as you are sober. The trail continues steep down to the small village Taguluche.
From Arure you can also walk up in the direction of Las Hayas and further into the forest, or in the direction of La Cercado and Chipude. Nice and easy trip with a good view. From Las Hayas and Cercado you can take the bus back. No trip to La Gomera is complete without a trip in the forest. The laurel forest is located in the heights and covers a large part of the island. It is one of the world’s oldest primeval forests, several million years old.
From Arure to Taguluche
Las Hayas
If you take the bus about 1 hour to Las Hayas it as a good starting point for walks into the forest. Sometimes the clouds are lying low over the forest, this is at about 1000 meters altitude. It gives cool hazy weather, but a nice demonstration of how the laurel forest gets water. The fog condenses on the leaves and it drips from the trees. Almost like light rain. It also provides water for undergrowth and flowers. When the sun occasionally breaks through, it gives a fantastic light and play of colors. The trees are overgrown with evergreen moss.
In the area on the upper side of Las Hayas there are several easy round trips without much ascent/decent. If you want a longer trip you can walk to Vallehermoso, or starting in El Cercado or Garajonay and walk to Hermigua. A little cumbersome to get home again. Either taxi, or bus to San Sebastian and then to Gran Ray. You should bring a windbreaker and a thin sweater, it can get cool.
“Jardin Las Hayas”
There are also accommodation options in Las Hayas and Chipude. In “Jardin Las Hayas” I had a room with a door straight out into a beautiful garden with lots of flowers and trees. It was the beginning of March, and it is very green and lush here, the apple trees have just bloomed, and the grass is sprouting. But it’s very quiet here. It is a small village, with no shops, this hotel and a restaurant. I’m having dinner at the hotel. They only have one dish and that is the place’s famous vegetarian menu. I am not very impressed, quite ordinary and could have been more spicy. There is another restaurant, a little further up, for those who want variety.
Parque Nacional de Garajonay
The national park covers large parts of the interior of the island and you definitely should visit it. You can walk short roundtrips, or, if you want to see more of the park, you can walk across it. Either as a day trip, or a two-day trip. If you come from Tenerife for a short trip this is the perfect way to see the island. Take a taxi in the direction of Hermigua and get off at one of the rings on the map above, either Las Casas or just after the junction between GM-1 and CV-14. Here you get a varied walk through laurel forest and mountains.
You can stay overnight in El Cercado, or continue down to Valle Gran Ray (La Calera on the map) if you have the time. Be careful not to walk to late in the afternoon as it is steep descents. From Gran Ray there is a bus back to San Sebastián de La Gomera.
Maps
I use Locus Maps og openandromaps on my mobile, og there are lots of guides. E.g. this one sunflowerbooks.
See Fotturer på Kanariøyene og Middelhavet for more about Locus Maps.
