It is fine to drive a standard car, but if you need to make modifications, skid plates are one of the first things to install. How to protect vital components depends on the type of car.
Also read overlanding-build-landcuiser-78 and overland-build-suv
Under body protection
Land Cruiser will do with the protection of the transfer case, but Land Rovers often has protection of differentials as well. Also, some use a plate in front to protect the tie rod. The bottom pan is usually high up and partially protected by the front axle on cars with rigid front axle so no protection is needed on this type of car. Cars with independent front suspension (IFC) may need protection of front drive shafts as these are exposed components.
Lifting
Moderate lift increases offroad performance, 2 inches is common. If you lift the car it is important to correct the caster angle otherwise it becomes very imprecise in the steering. If you buy a lifting kit, correction bushes for cars with rigid front axle are included. My experience is that this does not correct enough and more modifications should be made.
Winch
Winch can be useful, but if you run several together it is not important. If you have straps and good tow/recovery point for these in the frame, it is normally easy to pull out a car that is stuck. I have a winch, and in 8 years I have used it 3 times. Every time to pull out other cars.
Lockers
Many will have diff lockers on the rear and front axles. How important this is can be debated. I have it as the car was equipped with it when I bought it, but there are not many times I have used them. Of course, if driving alone and get stuck they are useful. The G-wagon has axle lockers as standard, but it has poor wheel travel and needs them.
Fuel
A pre-filter for fuel is wise in Africa and parts of Asia. Install a 30 micron filter before the car’s filter to catch the worst contamination. On common rail engines use a 10 micron filter. Then the main filter does not clog as fast.
An extra tank is useful, but it is fine with jerry cans for water and fuel. But don’t put full cans on the roof. Always think low center of gravity when packing
If you install an extra tank at the rear where the spare wheel is located then the spare wheel must be mounted somewhere else. The best thing is a swingout. The roof is not recommended because of its high weight.
Swingout from 4×4 Labs mounted on homemade bumper. The swingout also has a folding plate for the stove and the possibility of a bicycle stand.
Tires
What kind of tires and rims is the subject of much discussion. Many swear to the widest possible tire, but this is mostly for the sake of appearance. If you see what the pros are using, like the military or mining companies, then these are pretty narrow tires. Narrow tires perform better on rocky surfaces with less risk of tearing the tire sides, and in mud they dig down to solid ground faster. Lighter wheels give less wear and tear on the suspension and bearings and provide better ride comfort on asphalt. Extremely wide tires only benefit if you are driving on the snow, as in Iceland, or in very deep mud. On snowy roads they are dangerous because they float on top of the snow and give poor grip. Wide tires may be an advantage in loose sand because it floats on the sand, but a tall, narrow tire does the same. In loose sand, you release air to increase the ground contact area, and it is not in width, but in the longitudinal direction of the tire the area increases at low air pressure. That said, a heavy car will be able to use a wider tire than a light one. Fine dimensions are 235/85-16, 265/75-16 and 255/85-16 if you want a little extra lift of the car. If you are going to remote areas, you should also think about what is easy to get if you need a new tire. E.g. 235/85-16 is universally available.
AT tires, All Terrain pattern is generally most usable. It performs well in terrain and provides good driving comfort and low noise. MT, Mud Terrain is better if there is a lot of mud, but is worse on asphalt. Brake length increases on wet roads, and it is more noisy and has shorter service life than AT.
So the tire selection depends a lot on where to use the car. And it must be remembered that usually most of the driving is on asphalt and dirt road.
Rims
Steel rims have the advantage that they can be straightened out if you get a dent, but they are heavy. Aluminum rims are much lighter, but if they are dented they are not possible to straighten. Light rims, of course, reduce the total weight, but they are also better ride due to the un-sprung weight becomes lower. The risk of damaging a rim is small, so for regular trips, aluminum is ok. But make sure the wheels are not too wide in relation to the tire. Then they will extend sideways and will be more easily damaged.
Snorkel
Snorkel, or high intake of air, is, as you would think an aid to cross deep water. But more importantly, it reduces the dust intake in the engine. There is far less dust a few feet above the ground, and you can be sure it is dusty when driving on dry gravel roads or in the desert.
Cross deep water
If the water starts to move over the axels, you may want to have done a few changes first. The axels are ventilated with a hose which by default ends about 30 cm higher than the axle. Many extend this hose so that it ends higher, inside the bonnet and in the rear wheel arch. Then you are significantly better protected against water penetration into the axels. The gearbox and tank are also vented in a similar manner. Also check that the hose and valve at the end are not obstructed. This will cause under-pressure in the axels if you run into cold water and water can be sucked in through gaskets. Especially cars with rigid front axle are exposed to this. Technically, you can cross water that is so deep that water is not sucked into the air intake, but that is not recommended, especially on a car with a lot of electronics. You run the risk of electrical problems and water intrusion into the axels and cavities. Deep water and heavy current are dangerous as the car can float away. And by all means, stay away from salt water. After crossing deep water, you may want to check the oil. Allow the car to stand still for half an hour, then unscrew all oil plugs. Engine, axles and gearboxes. Drain as little as possible and check for water. The water is heavier than the oil and settles on the bottom.
Spare parts
Always carry all hoses and fan belts for the car. Take all radiator hoses, but also some lengths of all dimensions of water, oil, fuel and hydraulic hoses. On my LC80 the return hose to the servo steering box broke in the Sahara. If not full crisis, the car would have been insanely heavy to steer, and even worse, the risk of the servo pump being damaged is high due to lack of lubrication. Unfortunately I did not have the right dimension with me, but another car had it so I got it fixed.
Take all oils and brake fluids. There is always a risk a brake hose can bee torn. If crossing deep water you can get water in the oil. See below.
Take a tire repair kit, but also bring a tube that fits the wheels. Even if they are tubeless, they can save you in the event of a major tire tear.
Also, it is okay to have spare wheel bearings and various gaskets and o-rings. I enclose the list I use. This is my max-list. What you bring must always be considered based on where you are going.
Technical Competence
From the above, it may seem like you have to be a car mechanic to go on a trip. That is not the case, although it is okay to have some experience. But parts can be difficult to get hold of, and even though what the bush-mechanics can do is amazing, it’s much easier if you have the parts with you. Bring a service manual!
Compressor
If you are driving in loose sand or deep mud, you need to let air out of the tires. And afterwards you have to refill the tires, so you need a compressor for this. They typically cost 200 USD and upwards. If you have large tires, you also need a powerful compressor.
Communication
If you drive several cars together you should definitely have radio communication. Especially in cities it is easy to lose sight of one another.
Most people use CB radios which is legal to use in most countries, at least in Europe. In Africa you must check local laws. Some countries classify it as military equipment. CB works fine, but VHF provides better call quality and distance. But it requires an amateur certificate and are prohibited in some countries.
An affordable solution that works fine as long as there is a short distance between the cars, as in convoy driving, is a “toy walkie talkie” that requires no license. These only cost a few 10’s USD.
Water
Calculate approximately 3.5 liters per person per day. In warmer weather up to 5 liters. Fixed mounted water tank is fine, but jerry cans also work. See below for packaging.
In the LC80 I have a 20 liter jerry can next to the drawer section at the back. In the tank there is a submersible pump, and a crane with switch mounted in the rear. The can is easy to fill from the outside, or you can change the can if you do not get water to top up for a while.
Awning
An awning is nice to have. It protects against rain, and not least, sun. This is perhaps the most important thing if you are going south. You can choose between awning on the side, back or one that covers 270 degrees, i.e. one side and rear. The awning behind is fine if you have a cooker there, but gives poor shade, so along the side is more important. Prices start at 200 up to 1.500 USD for a 270 degree awning.
Cooler
A cheap thermoelectric cooler type works well, but it consumes a lot of power and discharges a battery in one night. A more expensive compressor cooler uses far less current and can run for several days without the battery having to recharged. But for safety, it is advisable to install an auxiliary battery for utility consumption. On a long trip with the 80 I usually take out the back seat and straps the cooler inside one of the back doors for easy access.
Packing
Make a packing list when packing. Hoses, belts, oils and similar spare parts that you hopefully do not need I usually push into the room along the side panels, and it is not possible to remember where you have them if needed.
The center of gravity is important. It is easier to overturn with a top-heavy car, and it can happen, especially when driving in sand. I tend to never have anything on the roof except roof tent. If you need something there, put the lightest on the roof, like clothes and empty jerry cans. If you fill the cans, put them inside the car. In the 80 I usually take out the back seat when I’m on a trip. Then the water and diesel cans lie on the floor behind the front seats.
Think about weight all the time. A heavy car performs poorly, and it does not take much to cross the allowable total weight of the car.
Be sure to attach and strap down everything as well as possible. You do not want the cooler box in the back of your head in the event of a sudden stop. I have drilled holes in the floor and bolted down strap hooks with a steel plate on the underside of the floor.
Recovery equipment
Again depending on where you are going. At least take a decent strap and make sure the car has proper points for it. For a frame car these must be bolted to the frame. If you are considering off-road driving you should bring some more. The points must be sized to withstand a car of 2 – 3 metric tons stuck in mud or sand being pulled loose. It requires strength. The straps must be sized for this too, preferably 10 metric tons, and shackles as well. The most effective type of strap is so-called snatch straps. These are elastic straps that work like a big rubber band. The strap extends, and when the car first loosens, the stored energy is released and the car literally pops out of the mud. Unfortunately, these straps are also fatal. It is possible that you have good recovery points, but no guarantee that the car you are going to pull loose have. If the hook or a shackle brakes, the strap comes with attachments like a projectile, usually through the rear window and out through the front window. And it brings with it heads and other things that might be in the way. Search Youtube for “snatch strap accident” and you will be scared. My advice is, never use them.
Safety
During the 8 years we have been doing road trips / overland, we have encountered any unpleasant or dangerous episodes. But it is wise to think security along the way.
When you freecamp along the road be sure to drive well away from the road so you are not seen. If we spend the night at, for example, picnic areas / petrol stations in Germany, we prefer to lie inside the car, near other cars with people.
If you are far from people and it is not mobile coverage, it might be an idea and have a satellite phone or a Garmin InReach or Mini for example. The latter is cheaper than a phone and has cheaper subscriptions, but can only send to receive SMS. In addition, it has a tracking feature that allows those in the home to see where you are.
Hi-lift jack
Also popular are hi-lifts, jacks that can lift close to a meter. These can be really useful if you are stuck. The wheels can be lifted and you can push rocks or sand ladders underneath before dropping the car down again. There are also straps you can attach to the rim so you can lift the wheel directly, and not just the body. Hi-lifts can also be used as a winch. But again, they are dangerous to use if you do not know what to do. The car should be equipped with high-lift attachments, because they slips easily. Accidents also happen when jacking down. If this is not done properly, the jack can run away and harm the user. Read the instructions and exercise at home before leaving.
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I strongly doubt the usefulness of a Hi-lift. I have carried it sometimes, but have never used it, even on trips in fairly rough terrain. None of those I have traveled with have ever needed it either. The jack is heavy and difficult to pack.
Hydraulic bottle jacks work well, but have too low lifting height. You will hardly get a flat tire on asphalt replaced with those. But there are telescopic jacks like this that can lift 30 cm.
Sand ladders
Sand ladders are sheets of plastic, aluminum or steel that can be laid under the wheels in loose sand or mud. Can be handy, but you are on a really rough trip if you need them.
Packing list spare parts and tools
| Storage places | |
| Battery Box | Tools |
| Box 1 | Rep. set tires |
| Box 2 | Grease Press X 2 Birf, GP |
| Hatchet BB | 52 mm socket, wheel bearing |
| Hatchet B2 | Oil seal extractor |
| Hatchet rear | torque wrench |
| Parts | Oil filter tool |
| Wheel bearing front, complete set | starting cables |
| Rear wheel bearing, complete set | Hi-lift, adapter, plate |
| Radiator Hoses, 2 pcs | Hi-Lift wheel strap |
| Diesel filter, coarse | Recovery. Snatch, tow, shackles |
| Diesel filter, fine | Winch equipment |
| oil filter | Fuel can |
| Thermostat | jack |
| Hose clamps | Support, jacking |
| Oil seals, front axle | Faun air emitters |
| Short shaft front | gaffa Tape |
| Spare diesel transfer pump | Electrical wires |
| Hand pump, diesel with hose | Fuses |
| Fan belts, 3 pcs | Steel wire |
| Servo hose, high pressure | Strips |
| Hose, 15 mm. Power | Funnel |
| Hose, 6 mm 20 cm | Compressor |
| Hose, 8 mm | Air pressure gauge |
| Hose, 10 mm | Tube for tires |
| Cooler hose, 17 mm | oil pump |
| Hose 12 mm, diesel | Oil seal tools |
| Air filter, | Recovery damper |
| Brushes, alternator | Bulbs |
| Fusable link | Relays |
| Release bearing, Clutch | Bolts |
| Tool | Epoxy glue |
| liquids | |
| ATF Dextron III Servo | Oil, engine 4L |
| Gear oil, redline | GP Grease |
| Diff oil 4 l. Transfer Diff | |
| Brake fluid | CV grease |
