Riga in Winter

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As a little break in December, we spontaneously traveled to Riga the second last week before Christmas. At this time, you can find very cheap flight tickets, and Latvia is an affordable country, so hotel prices are not discouraging either. We found a good deal at the Wellton Riga Hotel & Spa. The hotel was excellent, with a perfect location on the outskirts of the old town, and it has a spa in the basement if you wish to warm up after exploring the city, perhaps combined with a massage. There are also two other Wellton Hotel & Spa options, so make sure to choose the right one if you opt for one of these.

From the airport, there is a 20-minute bus ride with bus 22. Alternatively, you can take a taxi for 20-30 Euros. Prices vary significantly between different companies. Official taxis are the most expensive, while Bolt is the cheapest. There are also many unofficial taxis. However, if you take one of these, be sure to agree on the price beforehand.

Conveniently, the bus stopped right outside the hotel. It was late, but we grabbed some delicious tapas from the hotel’s tapas restaurant, and the minibar was well-stocked with reasonably priced items.

Christmas Market

If you want to get into the Christmas spirit, there are several Christmas markets scattered around the city. You can stroll among the stalls where they sell knitwear, sausages, and other crafts. You can have something to eat or a warm grog with rum, which can be enjoyed by one of the many fires while observing the bustling crowd.

Churches and Organ Concert

Riga is an old city with churches and other buildings dating back to the 1500s. Several of the churches are open to the public. For example, St. Peter’s Church from the 1400s and Riga Cathedral in the old town are worth a visit. The latter also hosts an organ concert every day at 12:00. Quite a few people had gathered to hear Bach on the mighty organ. The organ is from 1884, newly renovated, and is considered one of the best in the world. On a large video screen, you can follow the organist’s struggle with 4 manuals and pedals.
In the backyard, there’s a former monastery, adjacent to the Riga City and Maritime Museum, which contains some historical artifacts.

If you’re hungry, Pētergailis Restorāns near St. Peter’s Church is recommended.

City Museum

The City Museum next to the cathedral is worth a visit if you want to delve into the city’s history.
Here you will find exhibits covering various periods in Riga’s history, from its foundation to modern times. This include information about the medieval period, the Hanseatic League, and Riga’s role in different historical events.
Riga has a rich architectural heritage, and the museum have exhibits focusing on the city’s buildings, landmarks, and architectural styles.

Art Nouveau (Jugend)

Riga is known for its Art Nouveau architecture. In fact, it is the city with the highest concentration of Art Nouveau buildings in the world. We strolled through the large central park that borders the old town to the east, where most of the Art Nouveau buildings are located. In the park, we passed yet another Christmas market in front of the enormous Orthodox church there. We also passed the Russian Embassy. On the neighboring building, a huge poster clearly proclaims what Latvians think about the war in Ukraine. Latvia has a historically strained relationship with its eastern neighbor. We eventually found Alberta Street, where almost all the buildings are in the Art Nouveau style. Here, you can also find the Art Nouveau Museum. It had been a chilly walk, but fortunately, there was a cozy little café in the basement of one of the buildings where we could warm up with a cup of coffee and have lunch after the tour

Art Nouveau Museum: jugendstils.riga.lv/eng/muzejs

Overview of buildings: jugendstils.riga.lv/eng/JugendstilsRiga/6/

Zeppelin Market Halls

Europe’s largest and, in the 1920s, the most modern market halls are located just outside the old town, only a few minutes’ walk from the Wellton where we stayed. The place mostly contains clothing and food and has a great atmosphere. It’s fun to wander around and look at goods and people, grab a bite to eat, or taste vodka with somewhat tipsy Latvians.

These halls have an interesting history. They were originally built as hangars for Zeppelin airships in the city of Kurzeme during World War I. In the 1920s, five of them were dismantled and reassembled in Riga, which lacked a market. Today, they are being outcompeted by department stores but still hold their ground, especially among the Russian-speaking part of the population.

The market halls’ architecture is one of the main attractions. The buildings are massive and covers an area of approximately 72,000 square meters and are unique in design, featuring a combination of steel, wood, and glass. They have a distinct pre-World War II industrial style and are an architectural symbol of Riga, and they are recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The five halls specialize in particular types of goods:

  • Vegetable Hall where you can find a wide variety of locally grown fresh fruits and vegetables.
  • In Meat Hall you find a selection of meat, poultry, and fish products, often including traditional Latvian delicacies such as smoked fish and sausages.
  • Dairy Hall where you can purchase various dairy products, including cheeses, milk, and yogurt. Latvian dairy products are known for their quality.
  • In Gastronomy Hall you can find a diverse range of prepared foods, snacks, and international cuisine. It’s a great place to sample local dishes and international street food.
  • Bread and Grain Hall is filled with different types of bread, pastries, cereals, and grains. Here you can explore Latvian bakery products.

You will also find general merchandise like clothing and electronics around in the halls.

Read more: militaryheritagetourism.info/en/military/sites/view/120?0

Opera

If you like opera, ballet or classical concerts, it’s a good idea to check the program. They have excellent productions, and it’s much more affordable than in the west. And it has great chairs and legroom as well.

See: opera.lv/en

KGB museum

The tragic Soviet occupation period is brought close to you when visiting the KGB Museum. Latvia was occupied by the Soviets in 1944, and in the usual brutal manner, the country was Sovietized, with all the horrors that entailed. For example, 100,000 people were deported to Siberia. The KGB played a significant role, which is documented in the museum. It is recommended, especially for those with a fascination for totalitarian regimes.

See: okupacijasmuzejs.lv/en