A tour of England and Scotland made in May 2023. The trip went from the ferry in Harwich to Oxford, then a stop in the Lake District, then to Glencoe in Scotland. Then ferry to South Uist in the Outer Hebrides, ferry on to Harris & Lewis, then ferry back to Skye and the mainland and then via Lindisfarne to Newcastle and ferry back to the continent.
Here you can read about the Hebrides: the-hebrides-a-road-trip
And why to visit Oxford: oxford-england
Lake District
On the way to Scotland we took a 2-day stop-over in the Lake District, England’s most famous mountain area. The area is dotted with small lakes between green mountain sides and picturesque English villages with houses built of gray stone.
The area is also known for its many hiking trails and we chose a campsite that was a good starting point as it was in the middle of the wilderness. But of course it had a pub.
Glencoe
One thing that amazes us is the English’s apparently enormous tolerance for cold. We are Norwegians and should be prepared, but here we are sitting in early May at a campsite in Glencoe, Scotland wearing fleece and down jackets, shivering in gray weather with scattered streaks of sunshine. The English bounce around in shorts and T-shirts.
They are probably immune to the cold from childhood, brought up as they are in fog and rain in badly insulated brick houses without double glazing.
Red Squirrel camping where we stay is idyllically located down in the Glencoe valley, supposedly Scotland’s most beautiful. There are verdant, slightly hilly grasslands with reasonably large larches spread out in a suitably park-like manner. As the ice cream truck turns into the camp, a long queue forms as we try to warm ourselves with the local whisky
Mountain peaks tower around us on all sides. Not like in Norway with massive mountain sections, but more cone-shaped, partly shrouded in fog during the evening. The area is a paradise for hiking. There are trails everywhere. From Glasgow and north you can follow the West Highland Way, or you can take one of the many local trails. Most of them go up into the mountains and you have to reckon with many hundreds of meters of altitude up and down.
We followed the West Highland Way up the Devils Staircase for a bit. This is an old military road, and it got its name because of the serpentines that wind up the hillside. It was a Saturday with beautiful weather and the path was full of weekend tourists. Many people walk the whole way, and we got talking to David who started in the north and so far had walked 120 km. He expected to be in Glasgow in a few days. Luckily David was from Manchester so it was possible to understand what he was saying. The Scottish dialect is not the easiest. He, and several others we met had large rucksacks and spent the night in tents along the path.
In Scotland it is legal to wild camp by car if you have a toilet in the car., unlike in England where this is not allowed. But it is difficult to find nice places. There are few side roads and they are usually closed with barriers. So instead of parking in a roadside parking lot, we opted for campsites. On Skye and the Hebrides there were many more opportunities for wild camping.
There are plenty of campsites and they have a good standard. But surprisingly, they were often full, especially in popular places. And this was the first half of May, which is not exactly high season. The vast majority of visitors are British.
So we made it a habit to book a place online the night before. Most places have the option for this.
Skye
Skye is a large island on the west coast of Scotland connected to the mainland by a bridge. On the way there, you pass Eilean Donan Castle, Scotland’s most photographed castle, which towers majestically on a small island out in Loch Duich. The castle is from the 13th century and has been carefully restored and is open to visitors. Recommended.
The island is characterized by a wild mountain landscape and an infinite number of sheep. We took a half round trip along the north coast from Uig where the ferry from Harris had called. The road winds along the coast with the sea on one side and steep, green slopes on the other. Soon the slopes turn into craggy mountain sides.
There are many opportunities for hiking. We went on two trips to the most famous rock formations, The Quiraing and Old Man of Storr. The first in brilliant sunshine, but the old man was shrouded in mist and only we could only see glimpses of him. Count on many other hikers, especially to Storr.
Enjoy a stop in the island’s largest city, Portree, with just under 2,000 inhabitants. The colorful houses along the quay are iconic. Fish and chips is essential grasp the atmosphere.
Lindisfarne
As a rounding off of the journey, we visited the island of Lindisfarne, also known as The Holy Island. The island is known both from British and Norwegian history when the monastery here was plundered by Norwegian Vikings in 793, as the first of a series of expeditions to the British Isles. Fortunately, no one seemed to hold a grudge against us.
To get out to the island you have to check the tide. The road is flooded twice a day and you risk an overnight stay if you miss the time. Google Causeway Crossing Times – Holy Island
Facts
Why go
Scotland offers magnificent scenery. Not unlike Northern Norway, but greener. The Scots are easy to get in touch with, both when camping and in the pub. The Hebrides are a special experience with weathered nature and a lot of history. If you like walking, there are plenty of hiking trails.
Ferries
There are many ferry connections to England. We chose Stena Line from Hook of Holland to Harwich and returned by DFDS, Newcastle to Amsterdam.
Ferries to and from the Hebrides, and between the islands are operated by https://www.calmac.co.uk. Book early, they fills up quickly!
Camping
Wild camping is not allowed in England, but legal in Scotland. Camping prices in May 2023 varied between 20 – 50 Pounds. Even in the off-season it was often full, so book a place at the latest the day before.
Storr in nice weather with view against the mainland.
