If you’re looking to escape the northern Australian heat, you can head as far south as you can go – to Tasmania. This island is Australia’s smallest state but offers a diverse range of natural beauty. We met a Tasmanian couple in Darwin who claimed that Tasmania is 30 years behind the rest of Australia in terms of development. And you won’t have to venture far from the capital, Hobart, to feel like you’ve traveled back in time.
Richmond
If you’re in the mood for some small-town charm, the little town of Richmond, just 20 minutes from Hobart, is a great place to start. On the way there, you’ll pass by large vineyards with classic Georgian-style farms, easily recognizable by the grand verandas surrounding the houses, much like what you’d see in movies from the southern United States.
Richmond boasts a Georgian-style main street filled with cafes and antique shops, a hallmark of many Australian tourist towns.
For example read about Katoomba west of Sydney here: Blue Mountains – Australia NSW
The city played a significant role in the 1800s when it lay on the main routes between Port Arthur, Hobart, and settlements further north. Besides the colonial atmosphere, the town’s gaol is worth mentioning. A gaol is a local prison frequently used during the early colonial period when the population mainly consisted of deported convicts from England, or “transportees” as they were called back then.
Convicts weren’t immediately imprisoned upon arriving in Tasmania but were sent to work around the island. However, it didn’t take much to end up in the gaol. Road workers who were caught drinking or had unaccounted-for clothing, as well as disobedient maids, found themselves in the gaol. For less serious offenses, one would be released from solitary confinement after a while, but for more severe crimes, one would be sent to Port Arthur, where the real penal colony was.
If you fancy a refreshing drink, we recommend the Richmond Arms Hotel from 1888. This historic building has a cozy pub that feels more English than most pubs in England. Much of Richmond’s and other small towns’ architecture consists of small, simple cottages, many dating back to the 1800s. These were built by settlers and ex-convicts who were eventually released.
Port Arthur
Port Arthur at the southern tip of the island was a place the transported convicts desperately wanted to avoid. It was where you were sent if you continued your criminal career after arriving in Australia. The punishment was “hard labor” under extremely harsh conditions. The ruins of a large prison are still located at the harbor in the town center. Scattered across the landscape are small houses and cottages for officers, doctors, and others who were part of the penal colony. The whole area is surrounded by idyllic parks and gardens in the best English style, a stark contrast to the hellish experience for the unfortunate inmates.
Myths suggest that you could be sent to Australia for simply stealing a loaf of bread, but recent research has revealed that among the thousands deported, only a handful were convicted of trivial offenses. The vast majority were repeat offenders with many convictions.
Those who ended up in Port Arthur were put to work in quarries or timber harvesting. Difficult cases or those caught attempting to escape were also fitted with heavy leg irons. The weight of the leg irons was determined by the severity of the crime and the likelihood of escape.
Although most prisoners could move relatively freely while working, escape wasn’t easy. North of Port Arthur at Eaglehawk Neck, there was a 30 meter wide neck that separated the area from the rest of Tasmania. Across the neck nine ferocious dogs was tied up, known as the “Dog Line.” The sea was infested with sharks. So, even if you managed to flee and hide in the bush, most were captured when trying to move further north. Signal stations were also built to communicate with soldiers further north using semaphore flags in case of escapes.
Bush Rangers
Some did manage to escape. The most famous was Martin Cash, who, along with two others, bypassed the Dog Line by swimming across the strait in the dark. They then became known as “Bush Rangers,” armed outlaws who robbed farms and travelers before retreating to hideouts in the dense bush. If a former convict on the run was found with weapons, it automatically led to the death penalty. However, Martin Cash became known as the “gentleman ranger” because he often showed mercy during his raids. So, even though he was eventually captured and sentenced to death, he was pardoned and transported to Norfolk Island. This was a penal colony for the worst of the worst, those deemed too dangerous to remain in Tasmania. Martin Cash was released in 1854 and settled in a small cottage in Tasmania, where he lived and tended his garden until 1877. The cottage still stands.
Separate Prison
Perhaps the most terrifying penal institution was the Separate Prison. This was an attempt to improve the prison system, built in 1848 following the model of a prison in Philadelphia. The idea behind the prison was for inmates to serve in the utmost isolation with no contact with other people. The only outside influence was to be God and the Bible. The prison was constructed with soundproofed cells to achieve complete silence. Even the guards were forbidden to speak and communicated through sign language. Inmates were allowed to exercise individually once a day. They received their biblical influence through weekly devotions, where they were led to the chapel with hoods over their heads to prevent them from seeing fellow inmates or guards. The chapel itself was the most terrifying place. Each prisoner had to stand in a separate booth with a small peephole, allowing them to see and hear the priest reading from the Bible but preventing them from seeing other prisoners. It became clear over time that this approach did not achieve its intended results. Inmates began to hallucinate, and many went mad. It may not be a coincidence that the asylum was located next to the prison. A significant number of prisoners went insane, and many were physically damaged.
Prison labor
Timber harvesting was crucial for the English because they needed timber for shipbuilding. All oak forests in England had already been cut down. It could take 2000 – 5000 oak trees to build a warship, but the Australian eucalyptus tree was a good alternative. Eucalyptus is a tree that can grow over 100 meters tall. It grows straight and sturdy, making it ideal for beams and planks.
In addition, prisoners built roads, houses, and in Richmond, you can see Australia’s oldest stone bridge, built by convicts in 1825. The bridge is solid and beautiful, though a bit askew and showing signs of being built by amateurs.
National parks
The climate in Tasmania is not unlike the climate in Northern Europe. The island has high mountain areas that receive significant snowfall in winter. It has a rainy west coast and a sunny east coast. Much of the island is forested, and there are many national parks. The island also has a thriving wine industry, especially for white varieties like Riesling.
One of the most visited parks is Freycinet, home to the famous Wineglass Bay – a long, white beach shaped like a wine glass, surrounded by mountain peaks and eucalyptus forests. But don’t expect to have the place to yourself. I’ve never experienced such a tourist frenzy in a national park. We visited during the off-peak season, but we still found ourselves walking in line on the highly developed “trails” in the park. The trails were partially made of concrete and had guardrails.
However, you can escape the crowds. If you don’t suffer from vertigo, a hike up Mount Amos is spectacular. The trail can be quite airy at times, with steep slopes going up the mountain. The mountain is polished in many places, so don’t attempt the hike in rainy weather. Your reward at the top is a breathtaking view.
Other parks
If you prefer a bit more solitude in your nature outings, there are plenty of other parks to choose from. Particularly beautiful are Douglas-Apsley National Park and Mount William National Park. Cradle Mountain is a highland area with peaks over 1500 meters.
Roads, camping
We rented a large camper during our stay. Campsites are easy to find, but the road quality varies. Midland Highway No. 1 is good, while other roads can be very narrow and winding. Tasman Highway A3 along the east coast was challenging to drive with a large, wide camper. If you plan to rent a vehicle, opt for the smallest one possible.
All on this blog about Australia: australia
National Parks and Hikes: parks.tas.gov.au
General about Tasmania: discovertasmania.com.au
Port Arthur: portarthur.org.au
