If you have only been to Tenerife south, at Los Cristianos for example, you will be amazed at how big the difference is with the north. Tenerife south is dry. There are dry cactus fields high up before the pine forest takes over. There are many nice hikes in the south, see Tenerife South hiking, but it can not compete with the northern part of the island.
From La Laguna / Santa Cruz and northwards, a mountain range rises with the highest peaks over 1000 meters. There quite some rain here, and the cloud cover emits moisture, so it is very green. At the top you will find laurisilva forest (laurels), the same as at La Gomera, see La Gomera hiking.But also far down it is green. With needle trees, shrubs and cultivated land. Only below an altitude of 200 meters does it become drier and the cactus takes over. In the lowlands, steep, deep valleys run inland on the island, creating a dramatic landscape.
And there are lots of hiking trails here, and easy to get around by car and bus. It was expensive to rent a car when I was here, and I’m really glad I didn’t. In the city there is heavy traffic with a lot of queues, and in the mountains roads are narrow and winding and tiring to drive.
All references to bus schedules here are as of February 2022.
Read here about maps: Navigation apps for hiking
La Laguna
The capital and largest city of Tenerife is Santa Cruz de Tenerife which is located by the sea. It has grown together with La Laguna which is located higher and further into the island. In total, there are about 400,000 inhabitants in the two cities.
La Laguna, which is the original capital, has a large old town that is on the UNESCO World Heritage List, with the oldest buildings from the 16th century. There are lots of small restaurants and shops, and moderate with tourists. If you plan to stay a few days to hike in the mountains, La Laguna is a great choice.
Santa Cruz
Santa Cruz has a small old town, but the center is also nice to walk around in. There are many pedestrian streets with restaurants and shops. The two cities are connected by a very efficient tram line that makes it easy to get to and from. For restaurant visits, Santa Cruz is a better choice than La Laguna. In the old town of La Laguna, it seems that it is mandatory to only serve salad, tapas and pizza. In Santa Cruz there is a much better selection and many places where you can get a reasonably priced dish of the day, comida de dia. Although the old town of La Laguna is nice, I preferred Santa Cruz which was much more varied.
If you also want to go to the beach, there is a large beach a little north of Santa Cruz at San Andrés, Playa de Las Teresitas,
There are several bus routes to thr mountains. They leave from the bus terminal, La Laguna intercambiador. There is also an intercambiador in Santa Cruz, so do not mix up these. The tram passes both and ends in La Laguna’s old town, at Trinidad. Try to find a place to stay near the tram so you can get around quickly.
Cruz del Carmen
The most used starting point for hikes is Cruz del Carmen, abut half an hour from the city. It is located at 970 meters in the laurasilvia forest and is the starting point for 4 trails, all going downhill.
But you can also take the bus further into the mountains, but with fewer departures. If you are going even further north in the mountain you have to take bus 947 from Santa Cruz, and there is only one departure very early.
I prefer to hike uphill. It is better for the knees and ankles, and then it’s nice to increase your heart rate. So instead of walking 900 meters down from Cruz del Carmen, I took the bus to Punta del Hidalgo, a coastal town on the opposite side of the island. From there there are two trails up to Cruz del Carmen, PRTF10 and 11. I chose the 10 because then I could break off at the village of Las Carboneras and take the bus from there down again. Las Carboneras is located at 650 meters, and I began to feel in my legs that I had walked in the mountains for a week.
From Punta del Hidalgo, the trail rises rapidly up the mountain along the side of a deep valley. The trail is easy to walk, in the steepest sections there are carved steps in the mountains. You have an outstanding view down the valley towards the sea. Some places the trail follows natural ledges in the mountains with shallow caves. Here it is pleasant shade if the sun is shining. You start in cactus landscapes, but soon it turns green with grass and shrubs. Towards the end you get a unique view of the valley on the other side, down towards the villages Las Carboneras and Taborno on the other side of the valley, and the sea down there in the distance. One of the most beautiful hikes I have walked on in the Canary Islands.
If you continue towards Cruz del Carmen, you will soon enter the laurisilva forest. (Silva means forest in Latin). Then the sun and the view disappear, but instead you get to experience the magical feeling of walking inside among the moss-covered trees.
Taborno
I fell in love with this area and went to Taborno again the next day. Whether you go hiking or not I would recommend a trip here. There are several bus departures to here. Taborno is an elongated village located on a ridge between two deep valleys with steep mountain sides down from a small plateau at the top. The views are formidable all the way. A trip down to the distinctive cliff Roque de Taborno, which is one km further along the ridge, is recommended. Phenomenal views, but certainly not for those with a fear of heights.
And if you want to walk a little more and are tired of climbing, you can walk a small round of just over 2 km by taking PRTF9 and 2 behind Taborno.
An added bonus is that Taborno has a couple of restaurants, including “Histories Para no Dormir” – “Stories for not sleeping”, and a small bar, so you can get a well-deserved refreshment after the effort. Las Carboneras also has a restaurant, but it is only open on weekends.
Further north
Afur at 200 meters is also a possible starting point, or end point. There is a path up to Taborno, or you can follow Barranco Afur down to the sea about 2.5 km. There you will also find a beach, but you have to go the same way back, or continue along the coast. The disadvantage of Afur is that bus 076 leaves at 07:00 in the morning, or 13:30. There are several returns in the afternoon so no problem and get home.
Buses
On the buses you can pay with cash, but not card. On the tram, you must buy a ticket at the vending machine, which is available at all stops. Here you can also buy and refill a multi-trip ticket, or a practical 7-day card that is valid for the whole of Tenerife.
A selection of bus routes from La Laguna (Intercambiador). Some current times for weekdays. There are more departures, so check. Everyone passes Cruz del Carmen. There are also more departures on the weekends.
076 – Afur 07:00 og 13:30 Return 14:35 og 17:30
077 – El Bailadero 10:35 Return 11:45
274 – El Batán. 07:30 Return 15:50
275 – Caboneras og Taborno 09:35 Return 14:00 og 16:05 from Caboneras
105 – Punta del Hidalgo, every half hour
From Intercambiador Santa Cruz:
947 – Chamorga- Punta de Anaga 05:10 Retur 16:30 og 19:25
All about the Canaries: /canaryislands/
A short video:
